19 Days: Rwenzori Mountains – Central circuit with summit option at Margherita Peak, safari, gorilla option and ascent of Sabinyo

Taylor Made

Overview

In the heart of East Africa are the highest, non-volcanic mountains on the continent with the sonorous name Rwenzori. In the language of the Bakonjo, Rwenzori can be translated as rainmaker or cloud king. These names give us an idea of the challenges that await hikers. Often muddy paths lead through narrow valleys and over slippery passes. A trek through deserted wilderness and apparently impenetrable vegetation: lobelia and senezia tower up to four meters in height, shiny silvery lichens hang from the trees like beards of silent nature spirits. And when the fog clears, a bizarre, glaciated high mountain emerges from the green jungle. Admittedly, there are easier treks, but probably few that are so unique, spectacular and lastingly impressive.

We begin our journey in the territory of the last mountain gorillas on our planet. In the triangle between Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic, we climb the extinct Sabinyo volcano. Here we get in the mood for hiking in the jungle against the impressive backdrop of the Virunga volcanoes. The Bwindi Forest, our next destination is known as the “impenetrable forest” and, like the Sabinyo, is home to the gentle giants. We have the opportunity to get very close to the gorillas and cross the forest on good paths. What would East Africa be without safari? After the adventurous and fulfilling days of trekking, we end the trip in Queen Elizabeth National Park with a safari and sundowner.

Uganda – from the mountain gorillas to the mountains of the moon

What To Expect

Arrival in Kigali

Scheduled flight from your home town via Istanbul to Kigali. After your early or late arrival in Kigali, we drive to the nearby hotel reserved by Safaria.

Chez Lando in Kigali

Drive to Kisoro - Uganda

After a long or short night depending on your arrival time, we will be on our way to Uganda. We cross the border and soon afterwards we reach the small town of Kisoro. Our lodge is located just outside the park.

Driving time: approx. 4 hours
Driving distance of: approx. 150
Mucha Lodge in Kisoro (B, L, D)

Ascent of Sabinyo (3,645m)

Our first hike is imminent. We drive into the Mgahinga National Park and climb the extinct volcano Sabinyo which marks the border triangle Uganda – Rwanda – Congo.
First through the cultural landscape then a bamboo belt it becomes increasingly steep. The volcano is the habitat of a mountain gorilla families. We get a little foretaste of what awaits us on the Rwenzori: it can get sometimes muddy and slippery. Some passages are then secured with wooden ladders and stairs. Over a long ridge we reach Peak I and II and hopefully the main peak Peak III with a view.

1300 m
1300 m
Time: about 7 -8 hours.
Driving time: approx. 0.5 hours
Mucha Lodge in Kisoro (B, L, D)

To Lake Mutanda and Bwindi National Park

Today we hike directly from our lodge through villages, cultivation areas and cultural landscape in about two hours to Lake Mutanda. The local fishermen are already waiting for us here, who will take us north in their tree-trunk canoes across Lake Mutanda. We glide peacefully to the north bank for two hours and enjoy the view of the Virunga volcanoes. After a short hike on a gently and steadily ascending panoramic path, we reach Rubugiri, a lively Ugandan village that supplies the rural surroundings with the blessings of civilization with small shops. In the late afternoon we hike another six kilometers until we reach our lodge directly on the Bwindi Forest.

850 m
850 m
Time: about 5 -6 hours.
Walking distance: approx. 12 km

Rushaga Camp (B, L, D)

Optional gorilla tracking

Face to face with the silverback. It is not like the day before on a wide hiking trail through open cultural landscape, but “cross-forest-Ein” – always following the ranger and his trail through the dense forest. The walking time and distance of the hike to the mountain gorillas cannot be foreseen because they are constantly on the move in search of food. Depending on where you are, 4 – 6 hours should be planned for the hike through the often steep and slippery terrain. After an hour with the gorillas, it’s back to our hostel.

Those who do not take part in gorilla tracking can relax in the camp or go on short hikes in the area (please discuss this with the tour guide, possibly only possible with a guide)

Rushaga Camp (B, L, D)

On the Bwindi Trail through the park to Buhoma

Bwindi means darkness, impenetrable. Not many people ever set foot in this area. And we soon find out that this jungle really deserves its name. Perhaps we meet a gorilla family purely by chance, because we are hiking through their home. Forest elephants, brush-eared pigs and small antelopes also live here. The unspoiled region is actually reserved for us, the hikers, because cars have to bypass this route widely. In the afternoon we reach the small town of Buhoma, at the northern exit of the Bwindi National Park.

700 m
700 m
Time: about 5 -6 hours.
(F, M, A)

Drive to Kasese

Today we drive north to the starting point of our trek through the Rwenzori Mountains.

Driving time: approx. 5 hours
Driving distance of: approx. 170 km
Ruwenzori Int. Hotel in Kasese (B, L, D)

Kasese - Ibanda - Nyabitaba Hut

After breakfast, we will store the luggage that is not required at the hotel. (Attach name tags to the pockets). After a short drive we reach Nyakalengija (1,615 m), a village near Ibanda, our starting point for the Rwenzori ascent. With our escort team (guides, cooks and porters) we make the final preparations; the luggage is weighed and distributed. We leave around noon or early. Along the banks of the Mubuku (a source river of the Nile) and past the fields of the Bakonjo mountain farmers, we find our way through tall elephant grass and thick bush. On the steep bank slopes of the Mubuku we hike up and down through tropical forest, twice we cross the river on bridges. The last part of the approximately four-hour stage leads steeply up a ridge to which, like all accommodations in the Rwenzori National Park, very simple Nyabitaba hut (2,650 m). From here we have a nice view of the Portal Peaks.

Nyabitaba Hut - John Matte Hut

Today’s stage is characterized by fantastic and lush vegetation. First the route leads down to the Mubuku River and a little further upstream, then at the confluence of the Mubuku and Bujuku over a suspension bridge to the other bank. A newly laid wooden staircase helps us over the steep bank slope. Muddy forest floor, slippery roots and slippery rocks: this is pure jungle and correspondingly exhausting in rainy weather. At an altitude of about 3,000 m we meet the first Senecia. Continuously up and down, we reach the Nyamileju refuge after about 5 hours. This is where the bleaching moss zone, Bigo Bog, with the tussock grass begins. Another hour and our destination for the day, the John Matte Hut (3,480 m), is in sight. We walk through a beautiful Senecien forest, past huge flowers,

960 m
Time: about 5 -6 hours.
(F, M, A)

John Matte Hut - Bujuku Hut

As soon as we have crossed the Bujuku River on rocks, we go on a newly constructed boardwalk through the “Lower Bog”, a large plain with lots of swamp and tussock grass. Then we climb over roots and through mud, past long lichens and thick moss up the steep mountain slopes. The “Upper Bog”, a high valley, the texture of which is similar to that of the “Lower Bog”, extends at around 3,400 m. Walking forward sometimes means laborious “hopping forward” from tuft to tuft of grass; sometimes a piece of boardwalk leads through the moor. The mostly irregular movement through mud and morass costs strength and concentration. On the way we come across the river again, which we cross several times today. The route leads steeply through Bigo Bog and dense Senecia forest up to Lake Bujuku and on to Bujuku Hut (3,970 m). The hut is located a little above the lake in the middle of a light Senecia forest with high grass cover and, in good weather, offers wonderful views of Lake Bujuku, Mt. Baker, the Stanley massif and Mt. Speke. Incidentally, the Ruwenzori massif consists of six mountain parts. The highest peaks are with the twin peaks Margherita (5,109 m) and Alexandra (4,990 m) in the Stanley group.

625 m
Walking time: approx. 6 hours
Tent or hut (B, L, D)

Bujuku Hut - Elena Hut (mountaineer)

At the beginning through Bigo Bog, we climb a boggy hill through dense Senecien forest. We climb over tree trunks and under them. Because of the altitude, we have to walk slowly and steadily. A long metal ladder takes us to a good vantage point, from which we can look over the entire basin with the Bujuku Lake on fog-free days. This is where our paths separate: Today, the Ruwenzori aspirants climb in another 2 hours to the Elena Hut (4,540 m) below the Elena Glacier. Depending on the weather conditions, you have the opportunity to climb the summit twice (tomorrow and the day after tomorrow). The luggage and food are carried up by porters who then return to the Bujuku hut.

670 m
Time: about 4 -5 hours.

Hut (B, L, D)

Ascent of the Margherita peak (mountaineer)

Very early in the morning, around 4 a.m., the climbers set off for the glacier equipped with headlamps. The first stage leads from the Elena hut over rock terraces (rock climbing difficulty levels I to II). A fixed rope is attached in a steeper area. To the west towards the glacier it gets very up to the Stanley Plateau (this is where the crampons are used). At approx. 4,800 m, past the rock walls of the Alexandraspitze, there is a short descent through a steep rock channel. A metal ladder facilitates the transition down to the glacier. Then we climb again steeply up the glacier until we reach the pass between Alexandra- and Margheritaspitze. Just under an hour and a key point separate us from the summit. The last rocks on the way to the summit require climbing skills up to II +, a fixed rope is usually attached here. Depending on the weather conditions, we reach the summit after 5 – 7 hours. We have a fantastic view of the surrounding mountains and into the Congo. We descend to the Elena hut in about 3 hours. Discuss with your guide depending on your energy if you can proceed to Kitandara hut, if not possible have an overnight in Elena hut and descend the following morning.

650 m
650 m
Time: about 8 -12 hours.

Tent or hut (B, L, D)

Kitandara lakes / reserve day (mountaineer)

If the weather was good yesterday and if the ascent to the Margherita peak was successful, a leisurely descent to the Kitandara lakes awaits the climbers. With today’s summit storm, however, it will be a long day: We have to cope with the ascent to Margherita and the descent to the lake, so even with good conditions a 13-14 hour stage!

550 m
Time: about 4 -4 hours.
Tent or hut (B, L, D)

Kitandara Hut - Guy Yeoman Hut

We have to leave early so that there is enough time to rest on the way, because we have a long day ahead of us. Roots and rocks characterize the steep ascent in serpentines to the Fresh field Pass (4,280 m), which in good weather allows a wonderful view down to the Kitandara Lakes and the Edward Glacier on Mt. Baker. The descent is also steep – and also slippery, stamina and stamina are again required here. The path leads down into a river valley; we need about three hours for the arduous stage. This is followed by a fairly flat, but very long Bigo Bog section, then a steep section of the path that leads through mud, over large rocks and tree trunks. Today we need a lot of stamina, because this section of the route makes extreme demands on the psyche at times. A first cave appears in the mist between large, lush green ferns, mosses and lichens. It is the Bujongolo Cave, where the Duke of Abruzzo’s expedition set up camp in 1906. Along the steep rock walls with huge rock caves everything is dripping with moisture. The path over slippery rocks and slippery wooden ladders requires full concentration. The last 1-hour stage leads on a flat route through a beautiful high valley along the meandering river through lobelia forest to the Guy Yeoman hut (3,450 m). The path over slippery rocks and slippery wooden ladders requires full concentration. The last 1-hour stage leads on a flat route through a beautiful high valley along the meandering river through lobelia forest to the Guy Yeoman hut (3,450 m). The path over slippery rocks and slippery wooden ladders requires full concentration. The last 1-hour stage leads on a flat route through a beautiful high valley along the meandering river through lobelia forest to the Guy Yeoman hut (3,450 m).

290 m
800 m
Time: about 6 -6 hours.
Tent or hut (B, L, D)

Guy Yeoman Hut – Kasese - Drive to Queen Elizabeth National Park

We start very early. On the last stage we descend through beautiful rainforest; then a not so easy descent at a waterfall and over the Kichuchu rock, which requires a head for heights and surefootedness, to the Kichuchu cave. The following flat, swampy section of the path is difficult. We have to be careful and keep our balance so as not to slip on the slippery surface. We alternately hike through dense undergrowth, meter-high bamboo forest covered with moss and lichen, and through head-high ferns. At the Nyabitaba hut we come across our ascent route and walk back to the starting point or end point of the mountain tour to Ibanda in two to three hours. We say goodbye to our companions, distribute the tips and drive to the hotel in Kasese or have a night in Queen Elizabeth National park. Here we dry our wet clothes, enjoy a hot shower and the feeling of being clean again. Dinner rounds off our day and we fall into bed tired.

115 m
1830 m
Walking time: approx. 6 hours
Sandton Hotel or similar (B, L, D)

Boat safari on the Kazinga Chanel

Now is safari time! The large game reserve of Queen Elizabeth National Park includes rainforests, savannas, lakes, swamps and rivers. It offers ideal living conditions for hippos, buffalo, antelopes (Uganda Kobs), waterbuck and a multitude of colorful bird species (around 450). Lions aren’t that numerous, but they can also be spotted. During the boat trip on the Kazinga Chanel, which connects Lake Edward with Lake George, we have the opportunity to observe hippos, buffalo, crocodiles, elephants and water birds. A game drive through the wider park successfully rounds off the safari day.

Engazi Lodge/ Bush Lodge (B, L, D)

Optional chimpanzee tracking and drive to Mburo Park

In the morning there is the possibility to do an optional chimpanzee tracking or simply to enjoy the comforts of the lodge and to review the past two weeks.

In the afternoon we drive to Mburo National Park. The pastureland of the Hima shepherds, whose long-horned Ankole cattle graze with the wild antelopes and zebras, borders directly on the park. As we drive to our accommodation, we may see this peaceful coexistence. In the meantime the sun is already quite low and we enjoy the wide view over the African savannah landscape from our “eagle’s nest”.

Driving time: approx. 4 hours
Driving distance of: approx. 200 km
Eagles Nest in Mburo (B, L, D)

Drive to Entebbe and flight back Home

The only 260 km² small Mburo Park protects a habitat rich in animals, which is composed like a mosaic of acacia forests, open grasslands, swamps and several small lakes. We go on a walking safari with a park ranger. The park is famous for its abundance of impala antelopes, but waterbuck, hyenas and zebras can also be seen. With a lot of luck we might see one of the few leopards or lions that have immigrated again in recent years. Around noon we set off on our last long journey to Entebbe. For the short night we have a hotel near the airport.

Walking time: approx. 2 hours
Driving time: approx. 5 hours
Driving distance of: approx. 260 km
Sunset Hotel in Entebbe (B, L, D)

Departure from Entebbe Airport

Early in the morning transfer to the airport and return flight via Istanbul home. Arrival in the afternoon

Driving distance of: approx. 480 km

Map

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